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Objets d’art, objets de mode

If we have known since Paul Cézanne that “the Louvre is a book in which we learn to read”, this inexhaustible source of inspiration has not escaped one of the most vibrant worlds of contemporary creation, that of fashion. Increasingly, studies and monographs devoted to the great names of fashion do not hesitate to trace aesthetic genealogies that place these personalities in a historical and artistic perspective.

The rhythm is not only that of ruptures, more or less radical, nor of seasonal change, it is also that of echoes and reminders. The threads that are woven between their work and the world of art are almost infinite, and the history of art as expressed by the Louvre, in the depth of its collections and the reflections of taste, is a terrain of influence and sources just as vast.

Faced with the encyclopedic immensity of the Louvre, the method proposed here is to place this multiple subject in the light of the history of decorative styles, crafts and ornament, through the galleries and rooms of the Department of Decorative Arts. The textile presence is fundamental, but more focused on decorations and tapestries than on clothing itself.

On nearly 9,000 square meters, 65 contemporary silhouettes, accompanied by around thirty accessories, are displayed in a close, unprecedented, historical and poetic dialogue with the masterpieces of the department, from Byzantium to the Second Empire. So many remarkable loans, granted by the most emblematic houses, from the oldest to the most recent, from Paris and elsewhere.

The aim here is not to sprinkle the Department of Decorative Arts with fashion pieces, but to arouse or highlight proven connections, its collections having sometimes been shaped by the generosity of men and women of fashion, from Jacques Doucet to Madame Carven.

In terms of the history of art and fashion, there are countless complicities, often adopting common methods, knowledge of the oldest techniques, visual culture, the subtle play of references, from the museum’s catalogue raisonné to the fashion moodboard. Another way of looking at art objects through the prism of contemporary designers.

January 24 – July 25, 2025

MUSEE DU LOUVRE

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Intimacy

From the Chamber to social networks

A fascinating journey into the heart of our secret gardens through a history of intimacy from the 18th century to the present day! 470 works, paintings and photographs, as well as decorative, everyday and design art objects, reveal how intimacy has evolved. From the bedroom seen by Henri Cartier-Bresson or Nan Goldin, from wrought iron beds of the 19th century to the Bouroullec Brothers’ box bed, from the commode to the women’s urinal, from objects from the dry toilet to the bathroom, from aristocratic beauty to mass consumption, from licentious books to sex toys, from the Walkman to social networks and influence, including surveillance and protection tools, the exhibition shows how intimacy has become established and then profoundly changed. The boundaries between private and public have become more blurred and porous, giving rise to many debates.

In the 19th century, with the emergence of a bourgeois class, professional and family life separated: women were then mistresses of the domestic and the intimate. Painters, mainly male, such as Edouard Vuillard, who opened the path, often represented them in their interiors. It was only gradually, thanks to feminist revolutions, that the “mystified woman” shown in Betty Friedan’s book dissociated herself from the enclosed space.

The exhibition continues in the nave with a spectacular scenography centered on twenty-five masterpieces of 20th-century design around the theme of the nest and shared intimacy. Design from the 1950s to today, through seats, sofas and beds, illustrates a constant dialectic between a desire for isolation and a chosen promiscuity. Pieces such as Eero Saarinen’s Womb Chair bear witness to the protective withdrawal of the 1950s and 1960s, while creations by Superstudio, Archizoom and Memphis reflect the desire for gathering typical of the 1960s and 1970s.

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The tour continues at the back of the nave and in the galleries of the rue de Rivoli, addressing six themes that explore the most contemporary changes, from sexuality to social networks, including content creation and surveillance techniques. It also questions the issue of intimacy in times of precariousness and ends in a room dedicated to the most precious of intimacy, this conversation with oneself that the personal diary offers. Finally, a work by Thomas Hirschhorn, quoting the philosopher Simone Weil, invites us to reflect on the possibilities of social networks and to consider a new humanism.

October 15, 2024 – March 30, 2025

MAD

107 rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris

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Olga de Amaral

The first major retrospective in Europe of Olga de Amaral, a key figure in the Colombian art scene and Fiber Art. The exhibition brings together nearly 80 works created between the 1960s and today, many of which have never been presented outside of Colombia. In addition to the vibrant gold leaf creations that made the artist famous, the exhibition reveals her very first textile research and experiments as well as her monumental pieces. Since the 1960s, Olga de Amaral has pushed the boundaries of the textile medium by multiplying experiments on materials (linen, cotton, horsehair, gesso, gold leaf or palladium) and techniques: she weaves, knots, braids, intertwines threads to create immense three-dimensional works. Unclassifiable, her art borrows as much from modernist principles, which she discovered at the Cranbrook Academy of Arts in the United States, as from the vernacular traditions of her country and from pre-Columbian art. After presenting six works from the Brumas series as part of the Géométries Sud exhibition in 2018, the Fondation Cartier retraces Olga de Amaral’s entire career and celebrates the woman who marked a true revolution in textile art.

With this exhibition, the Fondation Cartier is revealing the audacity of this textile art, long relegated to the background because it was perceived above all as a decorative art practiced mainly by women. Firmly linked to the dynamics of post-World War II abstract art, Olga de Amaral’s ambitious creations move away from the conventional framework of traditional tapestry. This retrospective shows in particular her essential contribution to the artistic avant-garde of the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. During her year at the Cranbrook Academy (1954-1955) in the United States, the artist developed a deep interest in colour and conducted radical experiments with material, composition and geometry. Upon her return to Colombia in 1955, she combined this learning with her knowledge of her country’s ancient textiles and developed a spontaneous and expansive style inspired by the history and landscapes of her native land: the high plateaus of the Andes, the valleys and the vast tropical plains inspired her works with their shapes and tones. Two large series presented in the exhibition particularly express this interest: Estelas (Stars) and Brumas (Mist).

It was in the 1970s that Olga de Amaral discovered, through her friend the ceramicist Lucie Rie, the Japanese technique of kintsugi, which consists of repairing an object by highlighting its fault lines with gold powder. This metal quickly became one of her favorite materials, allowing her to transform textiles into an iridescent surface that diffracts and reflects light. In 2013, Olga de Amaral initiated a new series entitled Brumas, three-dimensional, slightly moving aerial weavings that reveal simple geometric patterns painted directly on the cotton threads. This time, it is a cloud, a fine rain of pure color that the artist invites us to cross.

October 12, 2024 – March 16, 2025

FONDATION CARTIER

261 boulevard Raspail 75014 Paris

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Corps in-visibles

An investigation into Balzac’s dressing gown

The Musée Rodin is showcasing a little-known piece from its collections, Auguste Rodin’s Study for a Dressing Gown for Balzac. Designed from a selection of sculptures from the museum’s collections, 19th-century fashion pieces from the Palais Galliera, and previously unpublished archives from the library of the Institut de France, the exhibition unfolds, starting with the singular Dressing Gown, an investigation into Rodin’s search for Balzac’s body. This investigation is a veritable prelude to a reflection on the bodies—real, idealized, statued, and hidden—in the monumental statuary of the 19th century that still populate our contemporary world.

Balzac’s body, as Rodin apprehends it through clothing, when he has a costume of the deceased novelist remade by Balzac’s tailor, reveals the man’s physique, considered unflattering by the monument’s patrons: Balzac, in a word, was fat. By bringing together couture and sculpture, and comparing the practice of tailors to that of statuary, the exhibition observes how the perception of bodies influences the creation of their highly idealized bronze image. It reveals how the myth of Balzac writing in a dressing gown ultimately allows Rodin to hide under ample folds a body rejected because of its corpulence. The exhibition invites us to reflect on the representation of bodies in public space, and on the necessary contemporary broadening of these representations.

Chosen by the Société des Gens de Lettres in 1891 to sculpt a monument to Balzac, Auguste Rodin embarked on a quest for the novelist who had been missing for nearly half a century: from studying Balzac’s image in Brussels at the home of a collector of Balzacian relics, to searching for his body in the writer’s native Touraine, where Rodin found a corpulent carter as a model, the stages of this investigation are recreated throughout the exhibition. A largely unknown fact, Rodin even found Balzac’s tailor and had him remake a costume of the writer to better understand his physiognomy. Visitors will be able to discover Balzac’s frock coat, recut for the occasion based on real and unpublished measurements of his body. Rodin then took on the challenge of embodying Balzac in clay and plaster for four years. The reaction of his contemporaries, for whom a large bronze man could not be represented as small and pot-bellied, led him to turn to the myth of a Balzac writing in a dressing gown to hide this body under the folds of a large drape. The casting of a real dressing gown in plaster, around 1896-1897, then appeared as the solution to the quest for a plastic formula restoring Balzac’s idea, in the absence of representing his exact body. The extraordinary Study of a dressing gown for Balzac, to which the second part of the exhibition is devoted, reflects the sculptor’s journey towards an idealization of the body, and invites us to question the current issues related to fatphobia and the exclusion of many bodies diverging from the “norm”.

The exhibition ends with the confrontation of the statue of Balzac, completed in 1898 and immediately rejected by the Société des Gens de Lettres, with a work by the contemporary sculptor Thomas J. Price representing an anonymous black woman, in jogging pants. On one side, an idealized Balzac but difficult to understand for his patrons, late 19th century, and on the other the monumental celebration of an anonymous woman, symbol of a new diversity in public statuary of the 21st century. By taking as a starting point the process of creating the Monument to Balzac, the exhibition “Invisible Bodies” will invite a broader reflection on the evolution of representations of the body in public space.

October 15, 2024 – March 2, 2025

MUSEE RODIN

77 rue de Varenne 75007 Paris

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The MET in Louvre

Dialogues of oriental antiquities

The Department of Oriental Antiquities hosts ten major works from the Department of Ancient Near Eastern Art of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met) in New York, currently closed for comprehensive renovation work. The Louvre was thus able to design with the Met an unprecedented dialogue between these two collections which will take place within the permanent rooms of oriental antiquities.

Dated between the end of the 4th millennium BC and the 5th century AD, the Met’s works, exceptional guests, introduce remarkable correspondences with the collections of the Louvre, that is, together they form a pair brought together for the first time on this occasion, or that they complement each other due to the specificities linked to the history of each of the two collections. From Central Asia to Syria, often passing through Iran and Mesopotamia, these collection dialogues allow us to (re)discover these multi-millennial works and the stories to which they bear witness in a different way.

February 29, 2024 – September 28, 2025

MUSEE DU LOUVRE

AILE Richelieu et Aile Sully, niveau 0

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